Granada: day 1

Before I start, allow me to explain my fascination with Granada:

My parents went on a two week trip to Spain for their 15th wedding anniversary (I'm pretty sure it was the 15th). While we stayed home with my grandparents (a period I will always remember as paradise because Grandma would give us a little dessert after lunch – crazy! unheard of!), my parents were roaming the southern half of the country. When they got back, I was absolutely captivated by what they showed me and told me. I was particularly enchanted with my dad's descriptions of this exotic city Granada and it's grand palace the Alhambra – I really think that my love affair with pomegranates has a little something to do with the fact that granada is the word for pomegranate in Spanish, and my parents' description of that city just fascinated me so. There were two photographs in particular which I have had in my head for years, wanting to visit the Alhambra to see those places for myself. I found out a couple days before I left for Spain that those two pictures were actually of the baths in the Alcázar of Sevilla.......but that doesn't change the fact that ever since I was a little girl I have wanted to see this city and particularly the Alhambra.

We came in by bus on Saturday – about a 2.5 hour ride, I think – and got dropped off at a pretty swanky hotel. My friend Kristin is dating a spaniard, Pedro, who went to university in Granada, so he gave her a few suggestions as to where to go and she, Hannah, Natalia and went out to follow what we affectionately called The Pedro List. He led us well - it took us through the center of town (nice, lots of shops) and into some narrow streets filled with little stores that sold exotic-looking cloths, lamps, floor lamps, jewelry, sequined slippers with toes that curl up, and hookahs. We got a coffee at a plaza he recommended, then went past the catedral (a little hard to see because its so surrounded by other buildings) and through town to look for the famous teterías (teterías being places where you get tea – Granada is famous for having tons due to the arab influence in the city).

NATALIA LOVIN HER COFFEE WITH A MAD HATTERESQUE ENGLISHMAN IN THE BACKGROUND

I think a small amount of history is due here: Granada is one the largest southern cities in Spain, and it was the very last arab stronghold in Spain before the Christians took the continent. The taking of Granada in 1492 (yes, when Columbus sailed the ocean blue) marks the end of arab power in the Iberian peninsula. Hence, Granada has a very strong arab influence, and its most famous feature, the Alhambra, was built by the last sultan in power there.

Granada itself is fairly hilly, being built in a valley with steep hills on the sides. In the background are snow-covered mountains – apparently you can ski out there. We went climbing up the hill to find some teterías and got distracted by the huge quantities of colorful exotic stuff too look at. I mean, those little shops were truly beautiful – if only I could bring it all home, I'd decorate my room with the little floor lamps, pretty colored glass, little silver teapots, and blankets with mirrors sewn into them.


SHINY THINGS.....

It was cold and rainy on our way back down the hill, so we decided to stop at this rather sumptuous looking tetería on the way down. We were seated at a little tiled table with a big hookah and a candle on it and given the menu of teas - I decided to go for the “Paquistani”. They brought us each our own little silver teapot, with string wrapped around the handle so we could hold them, and colorful glass teacups. My tea was AMAZING. It was made with milk, and the leaves were loose in it so I had to be careful not to get a mouthful of them. Actually, each of our teas were really (I mean, really) good. It was a great place to sit and warm up and chat.

OUR TEA TABLE

After visiting the Plaza Nuevo, which is right at the base of the hill where the river (well....stream really) runs, and hearing some really cool street music, up up up the hill we went to get to the mirador de San Nicolas. It is a plaza at the side of a church (San Nicolas, coincidentally) which has a spectacular view of the Alhambra, which is on the top of an outcropping finger of the hill. At sunset the red bricks of the Alhamba are lit up from behind, but we were not fortunate enough to experience it, since it was by this time raining lightly but steadily. We got a beer by the church (it was called La Alhambra, but it mostly just tasted like a slightly less tangy Cruz Campo* to me)

MY FIRST REAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA. ITS COLD AND CLOUDY, BUT YOU CAN STILL KINDA SEE THE SNOW COVERED PEAKS IN THE BACKGROUND. ISN'T IT HUGE?

THERE WAS A LOT OF INTERESTING GRAFFITTI ALL OVER TOWN– THESE CATS WERE EVERYWHERE. I'M NOT SURE WHAT THE HANGED ONE MEANS.....

*Cruz Campo is THE beer in Sevilla. Most places, its the only one you can get, and for sure if you just ask for a “beer”, thats what you will get, no questions, unless you are in a pub. I kinda don't care for it.